Sing and Play the Jamaican Way: Folk Songbook/CD review

I recently returned from my first ever trip to Jamaica!  Part of my reason for wanting to go to Jamaica was due to a growing interest in the island’s indigenous folk music, particularly mento.

Unlike the traditional music of Appalachia and Ireland that I am also learning, I could find very little if any online sheet music or instruction for Jamaican folk music.  So I turned to any tune books or instruction books I could find.  One that I discovered is called Sing and Play the Jamaican Way by Joy Simons Brown.

Sing and Play The Jamaican Way is a booklet and play-along CD containing 30 traditional Jamaican folk songs with lyrics and sheet music designed for the intermediate musician.  Each song in the booklet is included on the accompanying CD, performed at a slow tempo by a backing band.  Songs include Dip Dem Bedward, Emmanuel Road, Hol' Im Joe, Linstead Market, Nobody’s Business, Rookumbine, Sly Mongoose and Wheel An Turn Me.

The project’s musical director, pianist and chief arranger is Joy Simons Brown of Sound of Joy Productions in Kingston.  Ms. Brown's goal was to keep this music alive by making it accessible to children and adult learners like myself.  She was joined by musicians Chris Downer (percussion), Cliff Bond (drums), Nicholas Laraque (flute) and Damian Benjamin (bass).

Joy Simons Brown

Usually the audio that comes with song books has a lead melody for playing along with, but this CD only had backup music with what sounded like a drum kit and electric bass guitar, and some sprinkling of flute.  It’s well recorded, but seeing as how this is melodic folk music from the aural tradition - where sheet music is typically regarded as only short hand - I found it odd that there wasn’t a lead melody track for ear playing.  Students will either need to already be familiar with these melodies or be pretty good at sight reading in order to play the songs correctly.  It may be that you use this book as an aid to learning a song like Linstead Market, which you may have partially figured out on your own but want confirmation of the melody notes.

Also, instead of the “modern” instrumentation an alternative might have been to use Jamaican folk instruments like 4-string banjo, rhumba box and maracas.  In addition, I would like to have seen the suggested chords listed, but chords were absent from the musical scores.  On the other hand, the steady drum beats and bass on the backing tracks could be of use to a percussionist or bassist looking for rhythmic ideas or for the soloist looking for an alternative to a metronome.

The inclusion of the lyrics gives the reader/singer insight into not just Jamaica’s musical heritage, but also its cultural heritage and folklore.  Each of them a folk tale in miniature, these songs take you back to a time of innocence and youth, whether you grew up in Jamaica or not.  Many lyrics were left in their original patois language, so some may have to do research to fully understand the meaning!  Fans of mento groups like the Jolly Boys and Blue Glaze Mento Band will know that those artists have often taken these child-friendly songs and made them significantly more bawdy by adding their own adult verses.

For anyone with an interest in Jamaican folk music, Sing and Play the Jamaican Way will serve as a nice addition to your practice routine, as it will connect you to many hard to find traditional songs in a fun and entertaining way.  For more information visit soundofjoyonline.com.

Great Huts - Boston Beach Jamaica: Eco-tourism, Paradise on the Edge

After several visits to Northern lands (Ireland, Scotland, Iceland and Newfoundland) my wife and I were ready for something more tropical and Caribbean.  We considered going to Los Gringos in the Dominican Republic - and still may some day - but ultimately decided on Jamaica due to its combination of music, people, culture and attractions.  Once I learned about the area around Port Antonio (Portland Parish) and discovered Great Huts I knew we had found the right place!

Water view from Great Huts

About Great Huts

Great Huts is a rustic, 4+ acre eco-resort built on cliffs overlooking Boston Bay/Beach on the Northeast part of the Jamaican coast.  It is well-suited for the budget-minded cultural tourist, adventure traveler and nature lover. Accommodations consist of unique Afro-Caribbean style huts and bamboo treehouses scattered amongst a jungle environment that utilizes the surrounding limestone, trees and rocks to blend into the rootsy habitat.  

All huts feature hand-crafted furniture and are decorated with tribal art.  In fact, art is everywhere - carved wooden sculptures, paintings, masks, murals and more.  Great Huts is about 12 miles from Port Antonio, a bustling town with about 10,000 residents. Port Antonio has a marina, but no cruise ships, so it's less touristy than some other parts of the island, such as Montego Bay or Ocho Rios.

Sea Grape hut

Rates at Great Huts range from $35 to $250 per night, depending on the size of your tent, hut or treehouse and whether or not you have your own bathroom, hot water, kitchen facilities, water view and so on.  My wife and I chose the Sea Grape hut which offers privacy – being perched at the edge of the property on a cliff with an ocean view.  It also has its own toilet, hot water shower, a veranda and a small outdoor pool.  It was perfect!  The indoor/outdoor design makes it feel like you are sleeping in the open, but with a roof over your head.  The sounds of waves, peepers, birds and distant reggae music floats through the air as you drift off to sleep. There are mosquito nets over the beds but bugs weren't really a problem while we were there.

Tip: Don't rent a car!  Great Huts can send a safe, reliable route taxi driver to pick you up from the airport.  From Kingston's Norman Manley International Airport it's a 2.5 hour thrill ride through hairpin turns in the Blue Mountains with breathtaking views of the lush green landscape and the little communities along the way.  Taxi transport to and from the airport costs about $130 US each way. 

One of the many outdoor spots on the property

Great Huts offers free wifi in its open air lounge (I could kinda get it from our hut) and plenty of secluded places on-site to hang out and relax.  For a relatively small 4+ acre compound, everything is spaced out nicely so even when fully booked you still feel as if you have the place all to yourself.   Be sure to check out the cliff-side saltwater pool fed by waters of the ocean.  It was awesome!  Also look for the Rocks Cafe...when this hut is not being rented it's used as a common area where you can have lunch and enjoy the fantastic views of the waves coming into Boston Beach.  

There's music most Saturday nights at Great Huts, performed by the Manchioneal Cultural Group who puts on a traditional African/Jamaican Drumming and Dance show not to be missed!  Great Huts is also home to several dogs, exotic birds, lizards, turtles, rabbits and more.  

The cliff-side saltwater infinity pool! 

The Staff

The staff at Great Huts is friendly and courteous, yet unobtrusive.  The pace of life is a little slower in Jamaica, so service may not seem as prompt as you are accustomed to, but if you just go with the flow things will be fine.  There is security personnel on watch at all times and as guests we always felt comfortable, safe and well taken care of.   

Great Huts is owned by Dr. Paul Rhodes, an American physician who also manages the operations of the Port Antonio homeless shelter, which he founded.  If you wish to, you may make a donation or take part in community service at the shelter. Volunteers are housed at discounted rates. 

Food and Drinks

Breakfast is included - home-cooked and served every morning from 8 to 10am, consisting of eggs, fruit, toast, fresh squeezed juice and blue mountain coffee.  Lunch and dinner are also served - delicious, exotic creations of curried, coconut and jerk flavors, even pizza and pasta! Vegetarian options are also available.  Dinner prices start at $15 US.  

Great Huts keeps a fridge stocked full of soft drinks, juice, water and beer (Red Stripe, Guinness and Heineken) available to guests 24/7 at a reasonable cost. Just take what you need and mark it down on the sheet on the fridge.  Specially made mixed cocktails are also available - daquiris, pina coladas, rum drinks and more, plus wine.  At the end of your stay the manager can tally up your food and drink total and add it to your bill for which you can pay with credit card.  A great convenience!  

Tip:  You can drink the tap water!  At least I did with no problems.  I also consumed plenty of raw fruit (Jamaican apples, sugar cane, "jelly" coconuts and guava) in the wild while on a hike with no later issues. 

Some of the art on-site - Lion sculpture

Outside Great Huts - Yes You Can Leave the Resort!

From Great Huts there's a path down to a small beach complete with lounge chairs, hammocks, plenty of sun and shade, two naturally fed tidal pools, and a diving platform for those daring enough to jump in the water.  The sea water here is clear and pristine.  From this beach you can walk along a short gravel path to Boston Beach where you can take a surf lesson, go for a snorkel or swim, catch frisbee, listen to some music, or just chill with the friendly and helpful locals who will be happy to show you their hand-made jewelry and other offerings, or take care of any needs you might have.  We really liked the guys who hang out on this beach and kicked it with them most days.  These are good people who will look after you once they get to know you.

A short walk from the main entrance/exit to Great Huts is the Boston Jerk Center, which offers no shortage of Jamaica's famous smoked chicken/pork/fish/lobster and plenty of vendors ready for you to sample (i.e. purchase) their selections. A quarter plate of jerk chicken + festival bread should run about $400-500 Jamaican dollars.  Try Little Davie's stand...the first one on the right as you come out of Great Huts.  Don't go overboard with the spiciness though; if you get a little too bold that can come back to haunt you!  Top it off with a cold Red Stripe for $150-200 Jamaican and you've got a tasty little lunch.  

In the evenings there are several lively pubs and rum bars in or around the Jerk Center.  Our favorite was called Sylvia's, although the bartender there was named Angie.  We also liked a bar a short walk up the main road heading toward Long Bay on the left-hand side. We were told it was called "Favorita" (there may not be a sign but look for lights - it's just before a gravel road on the left, if you get to the sports bar on the other side of the road you've gone too far).  Many of the Boston Beach surfers and fishermen we made friends with hung out there. 

Small private pool - Sea Grape hut

Besides Boston Beach, another nice nearby public beach is Winnifred Beach.  (It beats the more well known Frenchman's Cove in my opinion).  Have a local show you the 20 minute jungle path which leads from Boston to Fairy Hill and on down to Winnifred beach.  Then, for his troubles, buy your "guide" a lunch at Cynthia's on the beach - the food there is excellent!  

From Great Huts you are also a short distance away from such attractions as Reach Falls, Rio Grande Rafting, The Blue Lagoon, hiking in the Blue Mountains, Frenchman's Cove, Nonsuch Caves, Long Bay Beach and more.  Any route taxi driver can take you to these places or Great Huts can arrange more formal tours. 

Tip:  Cabs are plentiful in Jamaica!  For a $120 Jamaican dollar route taxi ride (about $1.40 US) you can be in Port Antonio in about 20 minutes.  Port Antonio is a good place to stock up on supplies, visit the market and marina, and people-watch the goings on of everyday life. 

"Hello" bird near common area

What to Bring

Sunscreen - this is the "Island in the Sun" after all!

Bug Spray - just in case.

Water sandals like Tevas, Keens or Chacos - probably the only shoes you'll need.

Flashlight - Great Huts is mostly well lit, but you could use a flashlight when walking up to the bars at night or on the beach or in any other dark places you might find yourself.

Hat - to block the sun.

Immodium - just in case that jerk chicken rubs you the wrong way!

Swim trunks/swimsuit and some semi-casual clothes.  Pack light.  It always seems to be between 75 to 85 degrees and if it rains it's only briefly in the mornings or evenings, so you can leave the long sleeves, rain jackets and long pants at home.  If you should need to, you can always hand wash your clothes in the sink and hang them out to dry. The hot sun and breeze will dry them quickly.

Cash - Most transactions are in cash. You'll probably only use plastic at Great Huts. Carry small bills in both Jamaican and US dollars, just enough on your person to cover what you'll need at that time, and stash the rest away in various places. There are ATMs in Port Antonio should you need it.

Tip:  Jamaicans use Jamaican dollars and American dollars almost interchangeably.  But, a general rule is if it's something a tourist would do expect to pay in American dollars; if it's something a local would do expect to pay in Jamaican dollars.

Unlike other vacations where you are constantly having to go and do something, I was actually able to rest, relax and feel refreshed and rejuvenated by the end of our stay at Great Huts!  I would definitely return and, having now seen some of the other guest houses and villas in the area, I can't think of a better deal or better place to stay in Jamaica than Great Huts!

Jamaica Pictures: Boston Bay, Great Huts, Winnifred Beach

Just returned from Jamaica!  Full length post coming soon, but here are a few pictures!

Below is Boston Beach, a friendly locals beach great for surfing, snorkeling, swimming or just hanging out.  This beach is adjacent to Great Huts, the eco-resort we stayed at.

Boston Beach

Here is a picture of the outside of the hut we stayed in.

Sea Grape hut

The lovely Winnifred Beach, the beach that Jamaicans go to, was about a 20 or 30 minute walk away.  We had one of our Boston Bay surfer friends show us the shortcut jungle path to get there. Learn how you can help keep Winnifred Beach free and open to the public.

Winnifred Beach, Fairy Hill

More to come!