2nd Time in Culebra, PR – What Was Different?

Culebra is a small Caribbean island off the east coast of Puerto Rico near the US Virgin Islands.  It’s part of Puerto Rico (and therefore the USA) and still has an undiscovered feel that is hard to come by in the West Indies.  I first visited Culebra for a few nights in April 2013, which was documented in some previous posts linked below:

Why Culebra - 10 Reasons to Visit

1st Time in Culebra

Casa Yaboa  

We returned to Culebra in May 2014 for a longer stay.  Thankfully not much had changed in the last 13 months.

This guy (Clooie) was waiting there to greet us
when we arrived at the cottage

The Same

Casa Yaboa and Jacinto - we stayed at the same cottage which had not changed a bit and the owner Jacinto once again picked us up from the small airport with same friendly local dog there wagging her tail, and once again took us to the Milka grocery store to get supplies before driving us to the cottage a few miles away.  Jacinto also came back by the next morning to take us to pick up our Avis rental jeep and remained with us until we had it, which ended up being a two hour ordeal.  (Tip: rent from Carlos or Jerry’s jeep rentals, even if more expensive than the corporate name brand).  Jacinto is a great host and I’m glad we chose to stay at Casa Yaboa again.  We also met Jacinto's wife Susie during a relaxing break from her restaurant and she is very fun to talk to.

Common area at Casa Yaboa

One of the views from Casa Yaboa

Zoni Beach – Still our favorite nearby beach.  A short drive from the cottage (too far to walk), never crowded, great for swimming, and almost as beautiful as the more famous Flamenco beach on the other side of the island.  Zoni actually has better views than Flamenco, and due to the lack of people we always managed to grab the same shady spot under a mangrove tree.

The view from our spot at Zoni Beach

Flamenco Beach – Consistently named as one of the world’s best beaches, Playa Flamenco is Culebra's most famous asset and hence it is where the majority of the tourists and ferry riding day trippers congregate.  (Secret – Tortuga beach on Culebrita is even nicer).  We only went to Flamenco once this time and made a point of seeing the old rusty tank at the end of the beach which we had missed last time.

Here I am posing for a pic at the tank on Flamenco Beach!

Dinghy Dock – still the best place in town to get a drink and hang out.  Food’s not bad either.  Dinghy Dock has lots of frozen rum drinks, cold beer, a friendly staff and colorful characters.  We found out that May is sort of a mini-off season in Culebra.  Americans tend to come in December through April and Puerto Ricans visit during June, July and August, but May is an in-between time.  Three of the main restaurants – Susie’s (owned by Jacinto and Susie), Zaco’s Tacos and Mamacita’s – had chosen to be temporarily closed while we were there, making Dinghy Dock even more of the place to be.

Brava Beach trail sign - looks official!

New To Us This Time

Hike to Brava Beach – Take the paved road that runs behind the museum until it ends at a gate.  Walk through the gate in the same direction you were just driving.  It’s a 22 minute walk down a well maintained trail (you actually feel like you are hiking).  The trail leads to this awesome, huge, crescent beach with rough waves crashing on the shore.  Do not attempt to swim here.  Just enjoy being the only people on this beach as we did for the 2 hours we sat there under a makeshift lean to.  Bring your own water and snacks.  It was a 22 minute hike back up as well.  I timed it!

The trail to Brava Beach - very nice!

Brava Beach - turtles nest here

Culebrita – We arranged for Captain Dave with Blue Water Charters to take us on a 5 hour trip to tiny uninhabited Culebrita island nature preserve toward the end of our stay, and I’m so glad we did this!  It was about a 20 minute motorboat ride and we were the only ones on Capt. Dave’s boat that day.  He anchors on a side of Culebrita with calm waters and coral reef and provides snorkeling gear if you want it.  After snorkeling it's a short hike up to the abandoned lighthouse built in the 1800’s.  Very cool and worth doing. 

View of light house from afar

Culebrita's abandoned light house up close!

View of St. Thomas USVI from top of Culebrita lighthouse

Even better was the 10 minute walk to the other side of the island where the unbelievably beautiful Tortuga beach is waiting to take you in.  Picture the quintessential beach in paradise and this is it!  That afternoon spent relaxing and playing on Tortuga beach may have been the highlight of our trip.  Yes it’s difficult and somewhat expensive to get to Culebrita, but so worth it!  Be one of the few who gets to witness this spot!  Look out for the feral goats and millions of lizards that live on the island.

Walking trail on Culebrita to Tortuga Beach

Standing on Tortuga Beach looking left

Standing on Tortuga Beach looking right

Culture and History – We were able to catch the Culebra Museo (museum) open this time so we learned a bit more about the island’s history as a US military gunnery and bomb testing site.  We were informed about Culebra’s rare, endangered turtles and saw some Taino Indian artifacts.  Local artist and musician Jorge Acevedo, whose shop Arte Fango is now located above the Dinghy Dock, filled us in on the island’s calypso heritage and the ongoing efforts to preserve this ecologically fragile habitat.

The "aero perro" once again there to wish us a safe trip home

That's about it.  We still didn't check out the snorkeling beaches of Tamarindo or Carlos Rosario and were told that the hike to Resaca beach wasn't worth it - too difficult and the beach is a carbon copy of Brava anyway.  We did some kayaking at the cottages out in Mosquito Bay.  It rained a lot more this time - but never enough to ruin a whole day.

As I mentioned above, 3 of the restaurants were (temporarily) closed the week we were there in May, but in addition to Dinghy Dock we ate at Heather's Pizza couple times - surprisingly good pizza and pasta.  We also cooked some meals at the cottage.  Had it been an option we would definitely have eaten at Susie's, and Mamacita's would have provided another waterside bar alternative.  Barbara Rosa's didn't look open on the night we planned to eat there, although we did find a couple food carts such as Munchies and Tiki's Grill open for some inexpensive alternatives.  That's part of Culebra's charm - you never quite know when or if a place will be open so you just have to go with the flow.  

Why Culebra? Here are 10 Reasons to visit this small Caribbean Island

One of the main reasons people go to Culebra is to do nothing.  Here are ten other reasons to visit.

Convenience

Culebra is a small island about 17 miles east of the main island of Puerto Rico – close to the US Virgin Islands and British Virgin Islands.  But, it’s part of Puerto Rico, and for American travelers getting to PR is as easy as flying to any other state in the US.  No passport is required and you don’t have to pass through customs.  Your cell phone should work with no additional fees, they use US dollars, and most people speak English.  It’s easy to fly from the US to San Juan, Puerto Rico and from there you can either take a small puddle jumper plane to Culebra, or have a taxi take you to the ferry terminal in Fajardo.

Cost

There are round trip flights from Richmond, VA to San Juan, PR for $228.  Forget about taking a cab to the ferry (unless you’re really on a budget) because from San Juan you can “splurge” and book a flight from Isla Grande to Culebra on Air Flamenco for $70 each way.  (Make sure your flight into San Juan arrives in time to catch a flight to Culebra.  The last one leaves daily at 6pm).  With total air fare coming in at well under $400 from the mid-Atlantic it’s still cheaper to fly to Culebra than practically any other Caribbean destination, outside of mainland Puerto Rico.

Zoni Beach

Beaches

The mile long, crescent shaped, white sand, clear blue watered Flamenco Beach is consistently ranked among the world’s best.  Many visitors come just for Flamenco Beach and that’s about all they see.  There’s also Playa Carlos Resario for snorkeling, Playa Melones for snorkeling and sunsets, and Zoni Beach for a less crowded hang-out beach almost as nice as Flamenco.  Adventure seekers can hike to the secluded and wilder Resaca Beach and adjacent Brava Beach, or hire a water taxi to take you to the tiny uninhabited island of Culebrita, where the beaches and tide pools are said to be even better.  Flamenco Beach has food kiosks, camping and other amenities.  None of the other beaches do so bring water and pack a snack.

A Very Cool Bar

The laid back, waterside Dinghy Dock is the kind of tropical bar island hoppers dream of.  Crusty locals sit alongside jaded Expats and in-the-know tourists.  Island drinks like the painkiller are strong and the vibe is such that you won’t want to leave.  You can also bar hop to nearby Mamacita’s or head over to Susie’s restaurant for a great meal and to try another island drink - the bushwacker.

Dinghy Dock

Accommodations

You can search all over the Caribbean, but you may not find a no-frills cottage, cabin or bungalow quite like the ones offered by Jacinto and Susie (of Susie’s Restaurant) called Casa Yaboa, located about 5 miles from Culebra's only town, Dewey.  (Rent a golf cart or jeep).  It’s not exactly cheap, but definitely worth it.  If Casa Yaboa is booked, there are several other guest houses and rentals to choose from, including Naniqui by the Bay, Casa SuMarco and Villa Boheme, but Casa Yaboa would be my first choice.

Undiscovered, Non-commercial Feel

From 1909 to 1975 the U.S. Navy used Culebra as a gunnery range and as a practice bomb site during World War II.  The military has since cleared out, but Culebra has remained undeveloped like the Caribbean of old.  There are no big casinos, no mega-resorts, no shopping outlets and no chain restaurants on Culebra.  There are very few tourist shops.  No stoplights.  There’s one gas station.  Sometimes you’ll feel like you have the place to yourself, especially if you choose a secluded accommodation like Casa Yaboa.  A refreshing change of pace.

Side porch from Casa Yaboa's Trees Nest cottage

Diving/Snorkeling

Culebra is one of the most pristine places to practice snorkeling and scuba.  A barrier reef protects some of the beaches, making for tranquil waters where you can snorkel among turtles, sting rays and other marine life.

No Cruise Ships

This one's pretty self explanatory if you've ever experienced the masses of people who get off a docked cruise ship and stroll around the immediate vicinity of the port for a few hours each day, going to touristy places designed to accommodate them.  You don’t have to worry about that on Culebra.  The closest thing is the people from the ferry going back and forth to Flamenco beach, but that’s on a much smaller, and cooler, scale.

Palm trees and nice view from Casa Yaboa

Small Size

Culebra is only about 7 by 3 miles, so you can easily cover the whole island on a golf cart and be practically anywhere you need to be within 30 minutes.  But, you’ll probably be content to just relax in the "here and now", letting the day unfold as it may without feeling compelled to be constantly doing something or like you are missing something.

No Hassling

There's not much in the way of native culture on Culebra, and the constant hassling that can occur in other places like Jamaica just doesn’t happen here.  Crime is also not a problem.  The 2,000 or so permanent residents are mostly Puerto Ricans and Expats who have made Culebra their home since the military left in the 70's.  If you go to the pubs you might meet a few colorful local characters, but nobody is going to try to guilt you into buying a bracelet, necklace, key chain, et cetera. 

Culebra fauna

Location

Did I make it clear that Culebra is smack dab in the middle of the Caribbean?  It has the same year-round warm, tropical climate of more well known places like St. Thomas without all the people.  If you’ve ever been to the Eastern Shore of Virginia, it’s kind of like that but in the Caribbean.  The landscape is dotted with scrub, cacti and coconut palms. 

That's actually 11 reasons to visit!  There are lots of places worth vacationing in the Caribbean, but none seem to have the same appeal as Culebra.

Casa Yaboa - Culebra, PR

Jacinto, the friendly owner of Casa Yaboa, was waiting for us when we got off the plane at the one-room Culebra airport. At this point, we weren't planning on renting a vehicle, so Jacinto took us to the Colmado Milka grocery store and waited outside while we picked up supplies for the next 4 days, before driving us to our cottage.

View of bay from Casa Yaboa's beach

Casa Yaboa is a unique accommodation consisting of 3 cedar cottages overlooking a rocky beach and surrounded by a subtropical forest.  It's a tranquil setting close to nature with lots of outdoor space; you have to turn down a private dirt road driveway to get there.  It's located about 5 miles from the town of Dewey (AKA "Puebla" or just "Town") and about 2 miles from Zoni Beach. The rocky beach on-site is part of a small bay with calm waters that are good for swimming, snorkeling or kayaking.  Jacinto provides kayaks for residents' use and we paddled around on some plexi-glass bottom kayaks a couple times and could see the reef below!

Trees Nest cottage - looking from kitchen to front room

The three units are each very private, so you almost feel like you have the place to yourself, but with just three units it can't get that crowded to begin with.  Ours was the Trees Nest, which is the smallest cottage - perfect for us.  It sits on a hill above the water, and you do kinda feel like you are staying in a tree house.  The cottage was very clean and tidy when we walked in, and tastefully decorated.

Trees Nest felt like home, sweet home

We were very impressed.  There is a comfy bed, a wee kitchen, bathroom and indoor/outdoor shower.  You can look out and see trees and the water from the front and the side.  There are two side decks also with water views - one that is a bit lower and often shaded, and an upper deck right off the bedroom that is sunny in the afternoon.  Make sure you have bug spray if you plan on sitting out on these decks in the evening hours.

you step out from the bedroom onto this deck. there's a lower deck on the other side.

The kitchen in the Trees Nest cottage doesn't  have an oven, but it does have a double burner hot plate and there's a gas grill on the deck outside.  There's also a coffee maker, mini-fridge, and silverware, dishes, pots, and pans, so we had no problem cooking meals there.

Kitchen

In the evenings you can watch the sun set, and in the mornings the cottage remains darkened as the sun rises over the hill behind you and shines out onto the bay.  There are many screened windows, so as you lay in bed you can hear the sounds of waves crashing, almost as if you were sleeping outdoors.  Trees Nest doesn't have air conditioning, but the ocean breezes and ceiling fans keep it comfortable.  Jacinto showed me the inside of the Casita Bubi cottage while it was unoccupied and it was awesome too, set back a little farther from the water but with expansive views of the bay.  We didn't get to go into Casa Guayacan, but I'm sure it is great as well, maybe even the best of the three.

Common area for lounging

We spent the first day enjoying the cottage and the grounds.  The next morning we walked to Zoni beach, but I don't recommend trying to get there on foot unless you really like walking.  Zoni is only a couple miles away via a paved road, but the combination of hills and the hot Caribbean sun made for a challenging trek.  It's also possible to kayak into town, although you would have to be a fairly experienced kayaker to paddle against the currents coming back.  It's best to just rent a jeep or golf cart from one of the 3 or 4 companies on Culebra that offer them, which is what we ended up doing. By golf cart Zoni Beach is just a few minutes away, and Town is a leisurely 20 minute ride.  

View from standing on deck outside kitchen door

The world famous Flamenco Beach is a few more minutes past the town, but still easy to get to by golf cart or jeep.  I thought about renting a jeep for safety reasons, but a golf cart is half the cost and Culebra is only 7 by 3 miles big, so you can be from one side of the island to another within 30 minutes.  You are sharing the road with cars, but most drivers seemed considerate - accustomed to the tourists in golf carts - and were driving at an unhurried pace to begin with.  

The front screened window, as seen from the bed

On our 2nd night at Casa Yaboa, Jacinto took us into town to eat at Susie's Resturant, which he runs with his wife Susie, the chef.  Susie worked for years as a chef in Old San Juan before opening her own restaurant in Culebra, so eating at Susie's is quite the culinary experience.  We had worked up an appetite after a day spent at Zoni Beach.  It was fun to be in a laid-back restaurant with artsy decor where fellow diners are dressed in cutoffs and tank tops, and then be served this gourmet food.  Susie's was the best meal we had in all of Puerto Rico - highly recommended!

As of April 2013, Susie and Jacinto are planning on moving the restaurant to a new location a bit further from town but closer to Casa Yaboa, opening by July or August.

There were many hermit crabs on the ground below the deck

Susie and Jacinto are animal lovers, and you'll be sharing the grounds of Casa Yaboa with some rescued/adopted cats.  Jacinto stops by each morning and evening to tend to his cats, which are healthy and well-looked after. We also saw an iguana scurrying up the hill, some smaller inquisitive lizards near our cottage, and lots of hermit crabs roaming around outside.  Like I said, you are close to nature here.

 

Culebra has got to be one of the best islands in the Caribbean and Casa Yaboa is definitely one of the best places to stay in Culebra.  You won't regret it, and, in fact, once you are there you won't want to leave!  To read more about Culebra in general, click here.

1st Time in Puerto Rico: Four, make that Five, Days en Culebra

The pace of life started to slow down as soon as we touched down at Culebra's Aeropuerto, after a 30 minute flight from Isla Grande in San Juan that curved dramatically around the small island on its approach, offering the first glimpses of the incredible Flamenco Beach before snaking between two little mountains for a happy landing.

Culebra map - a cartoon map suits this animated island

After collecting our bags from the plane we entered the tiny, dusty one room airport where a dog was sleeping on the floor.  The dog wasn't waiting to get on a plane.  He had apparently just wandered in the front door and was hanging out.  That was a good sign we had come to the right place.

Ensenada Honda

Culebra, you see, is an overlooked jewel amongst a sea of higher-profile Caribbean destinations:  about 17 miles east of Puerto Rico's main island, and 12 miles west of St. Thomas.  Culebra is part of Puerto Rico, therefore making it pretty hassle-free for American travelers - no passport required and the same American currency is used.  Your cell phone will work here and you can drink the water with no problems.  Feel like Tweeting or Facebooking that picture of the rum drink you're enjoying?  Do it!

Painkiller 

They say the best way to make a good impression is to just be yourself, and that's exactly what Culebra does at first glance. The seven-miles-long by three-miles-wide cay doesn't put on any airs.  There are no stoplights, no large resorts, no high-rise hotels, no chain restaurants, no department stores, and no cultural attractions outside of one museum that I never found to be open.  Just a few guesthouses, small hotels and self-catering rentals scattered throughout the island, plus some restaurants, gift shops and basic grocery/general stores.

Flamenco Beach

There's only one beach with facilities of any kind (lifeguards, food kiosks, bathrooms, camping), but that beach - Playa Flamenco - is consistently ranked among the top ten beaches in the world.  That's where most people go and there are taxis ready to transport you from the ferry terminal to Flamenco Beach. Other secluded beaches with equally white sand and emerald waters, like the beautiful Zoni Beach (a nesting area for the endangered leatherback turtle), are waiting to be found; you just gotta poke around.  Water taxis can take you to even more pristine stretches of sand on smaller satellite islands, including Playa Tortuga on Culebrita.

Shady spot on Zoni Beach

It's all very, very laid-back and low-key. Come to think of it, this might be why it's so appealing to some, but not that popular with others who may be in need of more attractions, activities and night life.  Culebra has about 2,000 permanent residents: a mix of native Culebrenes, Puerto Ricans, and crusty North American expats.  Most everyone speaks English, but of course it's nice to learn some Spanish if you can.

Dinghy Dock bar

People come to Culebra to wind down and take it easy - go to the beach, go snorkeling, go diving, go sailing, maybe go kayaking or hiking.  These sunny outdoor activities lend themselves to island drinks: pina coladas, painkillers, daiquiris, and Culebra's own special alcoholic milkshake the bushwacker, available at any of the island's bars or restaurants.  The regional cervezas, such as Medalla Light, Magna or Presidente, also taste much better than they should here.

Most of Culebra's watering holes double as surprisingly good, eclectic restaurants where you can belly up to the bar in your tank top, swim trunks and flip-flops, and get a little light-headed on stiff drinks as you enjoy gourmet-level Puerto Rican and Tropical Fusion entrees, especially at local favorites like Susie's or The Dinghy Dock. How about a morning at the beach, followed by lunch and drinks at a place on the water, then an afternoon nap or hike before returning to the bar for happy hour and dinner, then finally some time spent star-gazing back at your cottage in the cool breeze before drifting off to sleep listening to the waves crashing and other indigenous sounds? If that sounds like fun then Culebra might be right for you.

Inside Susie's Restaurant, just before it got crowded on a Saturday night!

Visitors get around by either renting a jeep, or my preference, a golf cart!  Seafaring folks might use a kayak or dinghy.  We realized that we were going to need a rental after attempting the 2-mile trek from Casa Yaboa to Zoni Beach, up and down hills in the hottest part of the day. We made it there and back on-foot, but not without vowing to get a golf cart the next day, which we did.  You can get anywhere on the island within 30 minutes in a golf cart, and you can't help but enjoy the ride in a buggy like that.  By the way, we stayed at the eco-friendly Casa Yaboa and this 3-unit getaway will be focus of my next post.

Tarpon fish stay close by at the Dinghy Dock

After happening upon Culebra I feel like the search is over for tropical destinations.  It checks all the boxes I need, and none of the ones I don't.  It's so much less glamorous than you expect the Caribbean to be, and that's what makes it so great.  We were supposed to stay for four nights before returning to Old San Juan, but after falling in love with Culebra we scrambled to change our plans and managed to stay there an extra day-and-a-half, which made all the difference and allowed us to really settle in and enjoy our surroundings on "island time".

Picture from Datiles Beach on our last morning in Culebra

Leaving Culebra, but ready to return!

Much of Culebra is protected as a wildlife refuge, and the independent-minded locals seem strongly against development, so chances are Culebra could remain a hidden paradise for years to come. You'll need bug spray to ward off the mosquitos and lots of sunscreen, but you probably knew that already.  If you run out of these items there are places to buy more, or just ask anyone and I'm sure they'll be happy to share.

Click here to read my previous post about our 3 nights in Old San Juan.

Virginia to Culebra and back

Took a break from blogging for a week while on holiday in Puerto Rico.  Will soon be posting about our time in Old San Juan and on the beautiful island of Culebra!  Here are a couple pics for now.  Lots more to come soon, then back to more music-related content next week.

Saw this license plate on display in the Dinghy Dock bar and grill, Culebra

This guy (or girl) hangs out at Mamacita's in Culebra

Thanks for reading!

Puerto Rico Travel: Old San Juan and Culebra Island

I like the model we adopted for our last couple trips outside the continental USA:  picking a cool location that's relatively easy to fly to, where we could stay in one place for an entire week and not have to rent a car.  This worked for the urban/outdoorsy environment of St. John's, Newfoundland and for the relaxing atmosphere of Boston Beach in Portland Parish, Jamaica.  

In St. John's, NL we rented a lovely one-bedroom ground floor suite in a bed and breakfast, walking distance to all the bars, restaurants, hiking paths and other attractions.  In Jamaica we stayed in a cliff-side hut at a small rustic eco-resort in a remote location with beautiful beaches right outside its gates.  For our next vacation of this sort, I think we've found the best of both worlds:  Puerto Rico.  For starters, Puerto Rico is one of the cheapest places to fly to in all of the Caribbean.  Round trip air fare can be as low as $228 per person from Washington, DC to San Juan.  Because the Commonwealth of Puerto Rico is a U.S. territory, they use U.S. currency and Americans don't need a passport to enter.  Puerto Rico's water quality is held to the same standards we enjoy here in the States, so you don't have to worry about drinking the water while there.

Old San Juan

From the airport, Old San Juan is a only a short $20 taxi ride away.  The city is visually stunning with a historic district, Spanish colonial architecture, cobblestone streets, oceanfront fortresses and plazas dating back hundreds of years.  A cultural vibe also runs through Old San Juan, bolstered by its many foodie-oriented restaurants, hip galleries and contemporary shops.  It has a very cosmopolitan feel and even has a brewery - Old Harbor Brewery - the only one on the island.  We'll be looking for an apartment or hotel with balcony in the heart of downtown for a 3 or 4 night stay.  During our time in San Juan we hope to go on a guided tour/hike in El Yunque rainforest, about 25 miles to the east.

Culebra Island

Quite the contrast to Old San Juan, Culebra is a small (7 miles long by 3 miles wide) island about 17 miles east of the Puerto Rico mainland and 12 miles west of St. Thomas.  From 1901 to 1975 the U.S. Navy used Culebra as a gunnery range and as a practice bomb site during World War II.  Unlike other Caribbean  destinations, development and commercialism has not found its way to Culebra.  Today the island has about 2,000 permanent residents and not one single traffic light or high-rise hotel.  Portions of Culebra have been designated a National Wildlife Refuge the island contains beaches that have been ranked among the best in the world.  You can get there by flying or by ferry.  I think we've found an awesome small cottage on the island's northeastern edge near Zoni Beach.  I'm hoping we can get by on Culebra without renting a car, but we'll see.  

Sure there are other attractions and destinations worth considering:  bioluminescent bays, caves, the surf town Rincón, the charms of Cabo Rojo and Boquerón and the Museum of Puerto Rican Music in Ponce come to mind.  But studies show that relaxing, stress-free vacations are the most happiness-boosting so I don't want to go through the hassle and frustrations of renting a car and managing all the logistics that come with that.  Not when we can experience pretty much everything we want through a combination of Old San Juan and Culebra!